Cole & Mason: Over 100 Years of British Mill Craftsmanship

My first proper pepper mill was a Cole & Mason Capstan that my nan gave me when I moved into my first flat. That was fifteen years ago. It still works perfectly—though I'll admit the clear body has gone a bit cloudy from all those years of grinding. When a kitchen tool outlasts three house moves and countless dinner parties, you start paying attention to the brand behind it.

The Cole & Mason Story: From 1919 to Today

Julian Cowan founded Cole & Mason in 1919 in the City of London. Originally a giftware business, the company quickly pivoted to general hardware and housewares. But the real turning point came in 1946 when they launched their first wooden mill under the Peter Piper brand—the Capstan mill, which remains virtually unchanged today.

Here's what surprised me when researching this piece: Cole & Mason invented the world's first acrylic mill. The iconic 505, launched in the late 1960s, was inspired by acrylic doorknobs spotted at a dinner party. It's still in production. That kind of design longevity is rare in kitchenware.

The brand hit major milestones throughout the decades:

• 1970s: Patented the Duo mill—a clever design combining salt and pepper in one vessel
• Early 1980s: Awarded the Queen's Award for Export Achievement, becoming the UK's number one salt and pepper mill brand
• 1990s: Launched the Manhattan, their first electronic grinder
• 2010: Introduced the Derwent mill—now one of their most popular designs
• 2019: Celebrated their centenary with the limited-edition Knightsbridge Centenary Silver gift set

After testing dozens of pepper mills over the years (yes, my colleagues do judge me for grinding pepper at 9am), I can say Cole & Mason has earned its reputation. But let me be honest about something: not every product in their range is a winner. More on that later.

Cole & Mason Product Range: Mills for Every Kitchen

Walk into any John Lewis or browse Amazon, and you'll see the Cole & Mason range has expanded considerably since those early wooden mills. Here's what's currently available:

The Derwent Collection

The Derwent is their flagship range and, frankly, the one I recommend most often. America's Test Kitchen rated it as one of the best pepper mills on the market, and having used one daily for three years, I understand why.

What makes it special:

• Clear acrylic body shows exactly how much pepper or salt remains
• Six precise coarseness settings on the base (no guesswork)
• Stainless steel construction with a satisfying weight
• Gourmet Precision mechanism covered by lifetime guarantee
• Large capacity—fits nearly half a cup of peppercorns

The Derwent was the fastest pepper mill in comparative testing I've seen. It's also comfortable to hold during extended grinding sessions (think: batch cooking Sunday roasts).

The honest downside? That stainless steel body gets slippery with wet or oily hands. And the clear body means light can degrade your peppercorns over time—though I've never noticed any flavour difference in practice.

The London Collection

If you prefer the look of wood in your kitchen, the London collection offers traditional beech mills in various sizes. These are the classic designs that first put Cole & Mason on the map.

The London mills use the same Precision mechanism as the Derwent, just housed in natural or painted beech wood. They're beautiful objects—the sort of mills you'd see on Nigella's kitchen counter.

Electronic Mills

Cole & Mason's electronic range includes the Battersea and Hampstead models. One-handed operation makes them brilliant for anyone with arthritis or grip issues, and they're genuinely useful when both hands are busy with cooking.

But here's my hot take: electronic pepper mills are a solution looking for a problem for most home cooks. The batteries need replacing, they're bulkier, and there's something satisfying about the ritual of grinding by hand. That said, if you're seasoning large quantities regularly, they do save time and wrist strain.

Speciality Mills

Cole & Mason also makes:

• Herb and spice mills: The Stadhampton, launched in 2022, handles chilli flakes and dried herbs
• Oil and vinegar pourers: Matching designs for a coordinated look
• Gift sets: Popular for weddings and housewarmings

How to Choose the Right Cole & Mason Mill

After years of testing and more blind taste panels than I care to remember, here's my buying guide:

Consider Your Grinding Style

For everyday cooking: The Derwent set strikes the best balance of speed, precision, and durability. The adjustment dial on the base is intuitive—clockwise for finer, anti-clockwise for coarser.

For traditional aesthetics: The London beech mills look stunning and perform identically to the Derwent mechanically.

For accessibility needs: Electronic models like the Battersea offer one-handed operation with adjustable coarseness.

For gifts: The Knightsbridge or Marlow sets come beautifully packaged. I gave a Marlow set to my sister last Christmas, and she texts me photos of it on her table at dinner parties. That's the mark of a good gift.

Size Matters

Cole & Mason mills come in various heights:

• 130mm / 5": Compact, good for small kitchens or tables
• 185mm / 7.25": Standard size, good all-rounder
• 255mm / 10": Larger capacity, less frequent refilling
• 310mm / 12": Professional-style, makes a statement

I prefer the 185mm size for daily use—large enough to avoid constant refilling, small enough to store easily.

What to Put in Them

This is important. Cole & Mason mills work best with:

• Pepper mills: Whole black, white, or green peppercorns. Pink peppercorns should be mixed with other varieties as they're technically berries.
• Salt mills: Dry sea salt or rock salt. Never use table salt—it's too fine and can corrode the mechanism.

One thing I learned the hard way: never wash the grinding mechanism. It will rust. Wipe with a dry cloth only.

The Lifetime Guarantee: What It Really Means

Cole & Mason offers a lifetime guarantee on their Precision and Gourmet Precision grinding mechanisms. But let me translate the marketing speak into plain English.

What "lifetime" actually covers:

• The grinding mechanism itself (the burrs that crush the peppercorns)
• The mill stem running through the centre
• The guide bar holding the stem in place

What it doesn't cover:

• The body of the mill (2-year warranty)
• Motors in electronic mills (2-year warranty)
• Damage from misuse, accidents, or normal wear
• Any modifications or disassembly

For mills without Precision mechanisms, there's a 10-year mechanism guarantee instead.

I've seen Cole & Mason honour claims fairly. One Mumsnet user reported having their mill replaced after the mechanism failed, with reasonable proof of purchase requested. The process wasn't instant, but it worked.

Comparison note: Peugeot also offers a lifetime mechanism warranty. The difference is Cole & Mason is UK-based, which can make warranty claims simpler for British customers.

Cole & Mason vs Peugeot: Which Pepper Mill Wins?

This is the comparison everyone asks about. Both brands make excellent mills. Both have lifetime mechanism warranties. Both are recommended by professional testers. But they're different.

Cole & Mason Derwent Advantages

• Faster grinding: In side-by-side tests, the Derwent produces more ground pepper per rotation
• Clearer settings: Six distinct coarseness levels marked on the base
• Larger capacity: Holds almost half a cup of peppercorns
• UK brand: Easier warranty service for British customers
• Better value: Generally 20-30% cheaper than equivalent Peugeot models

Peugeot Paris Advantages

• French heritage: Nearly 150 years of mill-making tradition
• Wooden construction: PEFC certified beech from French forests
• Classic aesthetics: The chess-piece silhouette is iconic
• Two-stage grinding: Peppercorns crack first, then grind

My Verdict

For pure performance and value, the Cole & Mason Derwent wins. For classic looks and heritage appeal, Peugeot edges ahead. But honestly? Both will serve you brilliantly for decades.

What I will say is this: the Peugeot's wooden adjustment dial can swell if exposed to moisture or steam. In a working kitchen, that's a consideration. The Derwent's all-metal and acrylic construction handles splashes better.

Where to Buy Cole & Mason in the UK

Cole & Mason mills are widely available across British retailers:

Supermarkets:

• Tesco stocks selected models
• Sainsbury's carries the Derwent and London ranges
• Waitrose has a good selection, including gift sets

Department stores:

• John Lewis (my recommendation for seeing them in person)
• Debenhams
• House of Fraser

Online:

• Amazon UK (widest selection, competitive prices)
• Cole & Mason direct (full range, occasional sales)
• Lakeland

Budget tip: TK Maxx occasionally stocks Cole & Mason mills at significant discounts. I've seen Derwent sets there for under £30. Worth checking if you're not fussy about colours.

Care and Maintenance Tips

After fifteen years with my original Capstan, here's what I've learned about keeping Cole & Mason mills in top condition:

1. Never wash the mechanism - Water causes rust. Wipe with a dry, colourless cloth only.
2. Store away from moisture - Don't keep them next to the hob where steam hits them.
3. Use the right salt - Only dry sea salt or rock salt in salt mills. Wet or table salt clogs and corrodes.
4. Don't overfill - Leave a little space at the top for the mechanism to work properly.
5. Check peppercorn quality - Old, stale peppercorns produce less flavour regardless of how good your mill is.
6. Grind occasionally when empty - Helps clear any residual grounds from the mechanism.

Gift Ideas: Cole & Mason Sets Worth Considering

Given their heritage and quality, Cole & Mason mills make excellent gifts. Here are sets that work well:

For new homeowners: The Derwent set in forest green or gun metal. Practical and stylish enough to display.

For foodies: The Marlow set in natural acacia wood. Gorgeous grain patterns make each set unique.

For parents/grandparents: Electronic Battersea set. One-handed operation is genuinely helpful as grip strength declines.

For weddings: The Knightsbridge set in gift packaging. Traditional enough for wedding lists, modern enough to actually use.

Budget option: The London Natural Beech set. Classic design, lower price point, same excellent mechanism.

Final Thoughts: Is Cole & Mason Worth It?

Here's the verdict after years of testing, using, and frankly thinking about pepper mills more than any reasonable person should.

Cole & Mason represents exceptional value in the salt and pepper mill market. Their Precision mechanisms genuinely do last for decades—my nan's mill proved that, and my Derwent is proving it again. The lifetime guarantee isn't just marketing; it reflects genuine confidence in their engineering.

Are there areas for improvement? Yes. The electronic range feels less essential than their manual mills. Some of the novelty finishes scratch easily. And I wish they'd offer darker acrylic options to protect peppercorns from light degradation.

But for a brand with over a century of British manufacturing heritage, competitive pricing, and products you can genuinely pass down through generations, Cole & Mason earns a strong recommendation. The Derwent set remains my go-to suggestion for anyone asking what pepper mill to buy.

If you're looking for salt and pepper products to fill your new mills, or want to explore the Cole & Mason range available at UK supermarkets, Grocefully can help you compare prices across stores. Because having a brilliant mill deserves brilliant peppercorns to match.