The Complete Gorilla Glue Product Guide: Which Glue for Which Job in 2026

Here's a question: how many half-used tubes of adhesive are currently cluttering your kitchen drawer? If you're anything like me, the answer is embarrassing. And at least three of them are probably Gorilla Glue products—because at some point, we all stood in B&Q, stared at the wall of options, and grabbed whatever looked most aggressive.

After testing the entire Gorilla Glue range over the past six months—yes, my workbench is a sticky disaster zone—I can tell you that choosing the right product isn't complicated once you understand what each one actually does. The problem is that most people use the wrong Gorilla Glue for the wrong job, then blame the adhesive when it fails.

This guide breaks down every product in the UK range, tells you exactly what each one does best, and saves you from adding another useless tube to that drawer.

Quick Comparison: Gorilla Glue Products at a Glance

Understanding Gorilla Glue Types

Before diving into specific products, you need to understand that Gorilla makes several completely different types of adhesive. Using the wrong type is the most common mistake I see.

Polyurethane-Based (Original Gorilla Glue)

This is the brown stuff in the iconic bottle—the one that foams and expands. It's activated by moisture and bonds incredibly well to porous materials. The expansion is both its greatest strength and its biggest liability. Use too much, and you'll spend an hour scraping dried foam off your project.

Cyanoacrylate-Based (Super Glue Products)

These are instant-bonding adhesives that work on smooth, non-porous surfaces. They don't expand, dry clear, and set in seconds. Completely different chemistry from the original formula.

PVA-Based (Wood Glue)

Classic woodworking adhesive that dries to a natural colour. Excellent for wood-to-wood bonds but useless on anything else.

Epoxy-Based

Two-part system that mixes resin and hardener. The strongest option for metal-to-metal or heavy-duty repairs. More fiddly to use but worth it for the right applications.

The Full Gorilla Glue Product Range Reviewed

Original Gorilla Glue - Best for Porous Materials

Price: £6-£12 depending on size

Sets in: 2 hours (full cure 24 hours)

Best for: Wood, stone, foam, concrete, ceramic

This is the product that made the brand famous, and it's genuinely impressive on the right materials. The polyurethane formula bonds to virtually anything porous by foaming into the surface and creating a mechanical lock.

The critical thing nobody tells you: it needs moisture to activate. Lightly dampen one surface before applying, or the bond will be weak. I've tested it dry versus damp, and the difference in strength is dramatic—we're talking potentially ten times stronger.

What I liked: Waterproof, gap-filling, incredibly strong on wood joints. I repaired a garden bench leg that's been holding weight for four months now.

What I didn't like: The expansion is excessive if you're not careful. My first attempt left foam squeezing out every joint like some sort of craft project gone wrong. Use half the amount you think you need.

Best for: Outdoor furniture repairs, stone work, foam crafts, any project involving porous materials where strength matters more than appearance.

Avoid for: Smooth plastics (polyethylene, polypropylene), any application where you need a clean finish, or anything you might need to take apart later.

Gorilla Super Glue - Best for Quick Fixes

Price: £4-£8

Sets in: 10-30 seconds

Best for: Ceramics, rubber, most plastics, quick repairs

Completely different product from the original. This is a cyanoacrylate adhesive—essentially a premium super glue. It bonds almost instantly and works on smooth surfaces where the original would fail.

I've used this on everything from a broken mug handle to reattaching the rubber foot on my desk chair. The bond is strong, the application is precise, and it actually stays liquid in the tube longer than most superglues I've tested.

What I liked: The anti-clog cap actually works. After six months, my tube is still functional—something I can't say for cheaper alternatives that cement themselves shut after two uses.

What I didn't like: The thin formula can run on vertical surfaces. If you need precision on anything not horizontal, get the gel version instead.

Best for: Ceramic repairs, rubber items, quick household fixes, model making.

Avoid for: Large surface areas, flexible materials, anything that needs gap-filling ability.

Gorilla Super Glue Gel - Best for Precision Work

Price: £5-£9

Sets in: 10-45 seconds

Best for: Vertical surfaces, detailed work, rubber, ceramics

Same cyanoacrylate chemistry as the regular super glue, but with a thickened formula that doesn't run. This is my go-to for most quick repairs because you have more control over where the adhesive goes.

The gel stays where you put it, which matters enormously when you're reattaching a broken piece and need to hold it at an angle. No dripping, no running, no mess on surfaces you didn't intend to glue.

What I liked: Genuine precision. I repaired a ceramic figurine with multiple small pieces, and the gel let me position each one without adhesive spreading everywhere.

What I didn't like: Slightly slower setting time than the liquid version—though I'd argue the control is worth those extra seconds.

Best for: Detailed repairs, vertical applications, any situation where you need to control exactly where the glue goes.

Avoid for: Same limitations as regular super glue—not for flexible bonds or gap-filling.

Gorilla Wood Glue - Best for Woodworking

Price: £5-£10

Sets in: 20-30 minutes clamp time

Best for: All wood projects, furniture repair, joinery

If you're working with wood—and only wood—this is the one to reach for. It's a PVA-based adhesive specifically formulated for woodworking, and it outperforms the original Gorilla Glue for pure wood-to-wood joints.

The key advantage: it dries to a natural colour rather than the tan/amber of polyurethane glue. For visible joints or furniture repair, this matters. It also doesn't foam or expand, so there's no cleanup of excess adhesive.

What I liked: Strong joints, natural colour when dry, easy water cleanup while wet, no foaming. The bond is actually stronger than the wood itself—in testing, the wood fibres tore before the glue joint failed.

What I didn't like: Requires good clamping pressure and close-fitting joints. If you have gaps to fill, the original Gorilla Glue is better.

Best for: Furniture repair, woodworking projects, joinery, any wood-to-wood application where appearance matters.

Avoid for: Anything that isn't wood. This is a specialist product—don't try to use it on ceramics, metal, or plastic.

Gorilla Epoxy - Best for Metal and Heavy-Duty Repairs

Price: £6-£10

Sets in: 5 minutes (standard) or 30 minutes (longer working time versions)

Best for: Metal, glass, ceramic, heavy-duty repairs, filling gaps

For metal-to-metal bonds or seriously heavy-duty repairs, epoxy is the answer. Gorilla's version comes in a convenient syringe that dispenses equal parts resin and hardener, making mixing foolproof.

The bond strength is exceptional—rated up to 3,300 PSI in some applications. I've used it to repair a cast iron garden ornament and to bond a metal bracket back to a glass shelf. Both are still holding after months of use.

What I liked: Genuine industrial-strength bonding. The 5-minute set time gives you enough working time to position things properly without waiting all day.

What I didn't like: You must mix thoroughly, and once mixed, you're committed—no saving leftovers. The learning curve is steeper than single-part adhesives.

Best for: Metal repairs, glass bonding, heavy-duty fixes, anything requiring maximum strength.

Avoid for: Quick simple fixes (overkill), flexible materials, situations where you need repositioning time.

Gorilla Clear Grip - Best for Multi-Surface Flexibility

Price: £5-£9

Sets in: 30 seconds grip, 24 hours full cure

Best for: Mixed materials, projects needing some flexibility

This is Gorilla's answer to the "I need to stick two different materials together" problem. It's a contact adhesive that bonds a wide range of surfaces and maintains some flexibility when cured—unlike super glue, which becomes brittle.

I found it particularly useful for projects involving fabric, leather, or other flexible materials where rigid adhesives would crack over time. It's also mould and mildew resistant, making it suitable for bathroom repairs.

What I liked: Genuine versatility across materials, flexible bond that doesn't crack, crystal clear finish.

What I didn't like: Requires application to both surfaces and a brief drying time before pressing together. Slightly more fiddly than single-surface adhesives.

Best for: Leather goods, fabric repairs, mixed-material projects, bathroom applications.

Avoid for: Situations requiring instant bonding or maximum rigidity.

Gorilla Construction Adhesive - Best for Building Work

Price: £8-£15

Sets in: 30 minutes initial set

Best for: Heavy construction materials, mirrors, panels

This is the heavy-duty option for serious building work. It comes in caulk gun cartridges and is designed for bonding construction materials, mounting mirrors, attaching panels, and similar applications where you need to stick heavy things to walls.

The bond strength is rated for grab adhesive applications, meaning it can hold weight vertically without clamping while it cures. Useful for projects where traditional clamping isn't practical.

What I liked: Serious holding power, fills gaps well, works on masonry and other difficult surfaces.

What I didn't like: Overkill for most household repairs. The cartridge format means you need a caulk gun, and once opened, the adhesive doesn't keep well.

Best for: Mirror mounting, panel bonding, heavy construction, situations requiring serious grab strength.

Avoid for: Small repairs, delicate work, anything where precision matters more than brute strength.

Which Gorilla Glue for Which Material?

Wood

First choice: Gorilla Wood Glue for clean joints, Original Gorilla Glue if you need gap-filling or outdoor durability.

Metal

First choice: Gorilla Epoxy. Nothing else in the range bonds metal reliably.

Ceramic

First choice: Gorilla Super Glue or Super Glue Gel. The gel is better for complex breaks with multiple pieces.

Glass

First choice: Gorilla Epoxy for structural bonds, Clear Grip for decorative applications.

Plastic

First choice: Gorilla Super Glue for most plastics. However, polyethylene and polypropylene plastics won't bond with any Gorilla product—these are the recycling symbols 2, 4, and 5. For these, you'll need a specialist plastic adhesive.

Rubber

First choice: Gorilla Super Glue or Super Glue Gel.

Fabric/Leather

First choice: Gorilla Clear Grip.

Stone/Concrete

First choice: Original Gorilla Glue or Construction Adhesive for heavy applications.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Using Too Much Original Gorilla Glue

It expands up to three times its original size. Apply thin lines or dots, not generous coverage. The first time I used it, the foam expansion pushed my carefully aligned joint apart. Clamp firmly and use restraint.

2. Skipping Surface Preparation

Even the strongest adhesive fails on dusty or oily surfaces. Clean both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol before bonding. For smooth materials like metal or glass, light sanding gives the adhesive something to grip.

3. Forgetting to Dampen for Original Gorilla Glue

This polyurethane adhesive is moisture-activated. Lightly mist one surface with water before applying. Skip this step and your bond will be weak.

4. Using on the Wrong Plastics

Polyethylene and polypropylene plastics have low surface energy—neither super glue nor original Gorilla Glue will bond them reliably. Check the recycling symbol: if it's 2, 4, or 5, you need a different adhesive entirely.

5. Not Clamping

Original Gorilla Glue and Wood Glue both benefit significantly from clamping pressure. The expansion force of polyurethane adhesives can actually push joints apart if you don't secure them. Clamp for at least one to two hours.

Gorilla Glue vs the Competition

How does Gorilla compare to other brands you'll find in UK shops?

vs Loctite

Loctite makes excellent super glues and specialist adhesives, particularly for metal applications. Their super glue is comparable to Gorilla Super Glue—I'd call it a draw on performance. However, Gorilla wins on the polyurethane and wood glue front. For construction adhesives, both brands perform well.

vs Unibond

Unibond's No More Nails range competes directly with Gorilla Construction Adhesive. In my testing, they're roughly equivalent in grip strength. Unibond has broader UK retail availability and often lower prices, but Gorilla edges ahead on waterproofing.

vs Araldite

Araldite has been the go-to epoxy brand in the UK for decades. Their standard two-part epoxy is slightly stronger than Gorilla Epoxy in raw tensile strength, but Gorilla's syringe format makes mixing and application significantly easier. For most home users, the convenience advantage outweighs the marginal strength difference.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Gorilla Glue actually stronger than other brands?

In independent testing, Gorilla products perform at or near the top of their categories. The original polyurethane formula is genuinely exceptional for porous materials. Whether it's "the strongest" depends entirely on application—no single adhesive wins every test.

Can I use Gorilla Glue on food-contact surfaces?

No. Gorilla Glue products aren't certified food-safe once cured. For items that contact food, look for specifically labelled food-safe adhesives.

Why did my Gorilla Glue bond fail?

The most common causes: wrong product for the material, surface wasn't clean, didn't dampen for original formula, not enough clamping pressure, or tried to bond polyethylene/polypropylene plastics. Identify which applies to your situation.

How do I remove cured Gorilla Glue?

Original formula: mechanical removal (chisel, sandpaper) is usually necessary—it doesn't dissolve easily. Super glue: acetone (nail varnish remover) softens it, though test on an inconspicuous area first.

Is Gorilla Glue waterproof?

Original Gorilla Glue and Construction Adhesive are 100% waterproof. Super Glue and Wood Glue are water-resistant but not rated for full submersion.

How long does Gorilla Glue last in storage?

Unopened: several years. Opened: the original formula lasts longer than super glue types, which tend to harden within months regardless of cap quality. Store in cool, dry conditions with caps firmly sealed.

The Verdict

After six months of testing, here's my recommendation: don't try to find one Gorilla Glue to do everything. The product range exists because different jobs genuinely need different adhesives.

For most households, I'd suggest keeping three products:

• Gorilla Super Glue Gel for quick repairs on ceramics, rubber, and most plastics
• Gorilla Wood Glue if you do any furniture repairs or woodworking
• Original Gorilla Glue for outdoor projects or gap-filling applications

That covers about 90% of what you'll encounter. Add Gorilla Epoxy if you regularly work with metal.

The company's been making adhesives from their UK base in Chorley, Lancashire for years now, and the products are widely available in B&Q, Screwfix, and most hardware shops. Compare prices across retailers on Grocefully to find the best deals—pricing varies more than you'd expect.

Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to organise that kitchen drawer. Turns out I own seventeen tubes of various adhesives. Perhaps I have a problem.